Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Fleshy thanks to FEMA
And in the spirit of my friend's admonishment about my morose postings, it's time for something a little lighter - actually heavier, as you'll learn. You see, on the island we now speak of the FEMA five, or if you're particularly vulnerable, the FEMA fifteen. It's a term spoken with a pat to the belly, and here's how it works:
Remember when you were a kid and from the back yard you heard it coming -- the ice cream truck! Well here we have the meal trucks. They travel through the neighborhoods with a loudspeaker announcing their arrival. They pull up to a corner and open the window on a rolling source of sustenance. From out of the houses and alleys emerge persons of all walks of life, ready for someone else to take responsibility for meal planning. And here lies the rub:
Nobody will balk at your request for two of the Styrofoam-packaged meals. Even three. I saw one guy tell a story about his hungry family, then getting six of these things, only to turn the corner, sit on the curb and begin his feast. Just tell them how many, and out the window they come, no questions asked. Some days it's a hamburger; others chicken strips. How about a barbecue sandwich? Or maybe chili mac. Sorry, no tofu, no stir fry. No half-portions or egg beaters. Nope, nothing that resembles Lean Cuisine.
And so it comes to pass after all these weeks that one steps on the scale to discover -- the FEMA five. That belt is out a notch; those buttons seem a little more stretched; did my pants really shrink that much in the dryer?
Getting out of town can do more that give one a respite from the trash on every curb and the never-ending clean-up. It's a great chance to wallow in salads dressed with Italian Light, meat that isn't fried, and vegetables other than pasta, potatoes and creamed corn. It will be nice to escape this funk. Maybe I can regain more of my sense of humor. Heck, I might also turn loose of my FEMA five in the process.
Monday, October 27, 2008
Dumb to brag; dumber to have stayed...

Galveston's seawall used to be a twenty mile mural. Ike eroded a lot of it. Once higher priorities are addreesed, I hope our local artists will come in and fix it.
While walking the dog on the seawall Sunday, we noticed a crowd up ahead. These days that usually means a meal truck. FEMA, the grocery stores, some local churches, a mosque, and the Salvation Army give away hot food twice a day. But this group was a bit different. It was the Salvation Army all right, but they weren't giving away meals. Their band had taken its place atop what is left of a concrete stage and had begun to play hymns. I am not a religious person, so hymns take me back to my childhood and a simpler time.This was a setting to behold. To stand there, in the midst of a cool sea breeze with the water uncommonly blue, stirred me to tears. Several van loads of folks from a Baptist church in Oklahoma joined the rest of us to take it in.
There was no proselytyzing, nor were leaflets and unwanted religious tracts littering the ground. There was just all of us - making the best of it and, in our own ways, conveying the same thing to each other --hope.

Thursday, October 23, 2008
Did you see our mayor on the Today Show this morning? Al Roker was in Galveston as a follow-up, now that it's been six weeks after Ike. I’ve been telling those who ask that I thought it would take two years for Galveston Island to recover. This morning Lyda Ann Thomas, our mayor, was asked the question. She estimated it would take five. Not really the psychological upper I needed today.
Yesterday was filled with vehicular bummers as well.
My drowned motorcycle is off-loaded at Stubbs Harley Davidson where it will get its chance to pass muster for storm rehab. (No one there would even venture an estimate on what this is going to cost.)
My nephew’s pickup, which I’ve borrowed and is my only remaining motorized transportation, broke down at Home Depot a few hours later. Looks like it's a combination of a failing fuel pump and some gas with water in it. About $400 plus 2-3 days in the shop.
With Kathy out of town, I’m down to my tRUSTY bicycle.
Wednesday, October 22, 2008

October 19
My friend Harry needed some help moving his Catalina 30 to a secure marina. As you can see, there were a few obstacles between us and his boat.
Once aboard, we were able to get the little diesel started and the boat out of the slip. With sails stowed below, we chose to motor down the ship channel to the boat's temporary lodging closer to Houston. Pleasant weather made the trip enjoyable until we came parallel with Crystal Beach on Bolivar Peninsula. About a mile offshore, we were inundated with flies, a grim reminder that this was an area of profound destruction and where most of the yet-to-be-found bodies are thought to be buried in debris.
Sunday, October 19, 2008
Taking a break




The weather was nice – in the low seventies, and as you might expect, people who come to such work parties are of a pleasant disposition. But pleasant dispositions aside, many people here are still upset that so much of the country does not understand the magnitude of this storm.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Tough times for small business

City officials say about one-third of those who lived in Galveston lost their homes to Hurricane Ike. A lot of those were the beachfront houses on the west end, beyond the seawall. Those like us behind the seawall, fared better, but I'd still estimate about 80% of all the homes behind the seawall were significantly damaged. We've had adjusters from all the insurance companies here, although only the Windstorm insurance has actually paid a dime.
Today they finished a six-day project of tearing out all the molding old ductwork under the house. With that done, they can now begin to tear out the wiring. Meanwhile, along the seawall they are beginning to create piles of what can best be described as small boulders. These are the riprap that Hurricane Ike actually pushed over the seawall and onto the boulevard.
Today I went to buy a new tire for Kathy's bicycle. I swung into Academy Sports because it was handy. Once in a parking spot with motor shut off, I hesitated, then started up and drove off. About a mile away, I pulled in front of West End Cycles, a bicycle shop that's been in Galveston since the late forties. Kathy bought me my wedding present there in 1971 -- a ten-speed Raleigh Super Course with Weinmann center-pull brakes and a leather Brooks seat. That was top of the line at the time. I guess it says something about our relationship that such was my wedding present.
When I went inside, there were the two old guys who have worked there since that time thirty five years ago. What was absent was the inventory. They had two new cruiser bikes on the floor. Just two. They told me all the rest of their bikes were looted the night of the hurricane when their windows were blown out and somebody waded in and took their bikes. They are making do by repairing and tuning up the bicycles of a few loyal customers.
We chatted about how tough it's going to be for small businesses to come back. Then I paid $17 for a tire I could have gotten for $12 at Academy and $9 at WalMart. Man, that felt good.
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Things keep getting better
Things here are getting back to normal. Survivor’s guilt compels me to comment that there are still 10,000 families in the county without electricity, and the tent cities will not come down until the end of October.
We got a land line yesterday. Now that I’ve grown accustomed to the phone service of Mexicans, Chinese and New Yorkers, I now must readjust to those of us who are supposed to rely on AT&T’s ‘other service’. I confess, it was almost decadent to send faxes again.
Tonight we sleep with air conditioning! Okay, it's pretty much jury-rigged by the A/C contractor who came by today to assess how we could get all the damaged stuff replaced. Seems compressors, air handlers and duct work are all in line to be torn out and replaced. Additionally all that historical wiring has to go also or we’ll never meet code again.(Who knows what knob and tube means? Sounds erotic, doesn't it?) That’s right. This ol’ house is going to be totally without electricity for a while as they pull and replace every wire in the place.
Our hard work is beginning to aesthetically pay off. We actually swam in the pool yesterday. All the pumps and the hot tub's thermostat aren’t in yet, but we've got chlorine circulating, etc. Kathy came home from PetsMart yesterday with seven new fish for the pond. I’m looking for suggestions for names, although one has to be named Ike.
Curfew has been moved from midnight until six a.m. WalMart and Home Depot won’t let you in after 11:30. I chatted with a nice young lady who works at WalMart yesterday. She said everyone is working overtime and she got out of there the night before at 1:30, as it took that long to get the last shoppers to leave. Home Depot parking lot requires the cruising behavior of a big city mall, and inside it’s shoulder to shoulder, even though it’s been nearly a month. They have lots of extra workers from all over the country to help shoulder the load.
I would estimate there are about ten restaurants now open. No haute cuisine, but at least a variety of fried fish and hamburgers. The island is yearning for soul food and upscale menus. Maybe in November we hear.
A front page article in the Galveston Daily News today commented on the 200-300 mental health patients that have been lost. No one is certain if they are somewhere loose on the streets or in shelters in other towns. What is known is that records show they are about to run out of medication. These are chronically mentally ill folks who really require psychiatric supervision. I remember having to handle a number of these in the shelter in San Antonio after Katrina. I can only hope these souls get connected somewhere.
Next week Galveston Bay Association had planned its two-day bike ride from Bolivar Peninsula, through Galveston to a mainland destination. The ride was cancelled, and riders were offered a chance to let the entry fee be designated for rebuilding. Moreover, an invitation went out for interested riders to come volunteer for the two day weekend and assist in rebuilding projects. That’s where Kathy and I will be this weekend.
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Things move slowly here
Last night we had dinner with some friends whose waterfront house was completely destroyed. He is a physician and medical director for American National Insurance. So there he is, every day, sitting at a makeshift desk in a temporary office, with no home to go home to, part of a company that's trying to cut its losses.
I finish my third glass of wine and remark how all that training I had as a psychiatrist plus working for the Red Cross for 3 months in a Katrina shelter did little to prepare me for what it's like to stand in line to get a handout of ice. (I cried when the National Guardsmen asked me if there was anything else they could help me with.)
A couple of small restaurants managed to open in last few days. We had lunch today at El Gusto, a small family-run place. The 'menu' was handwritten on a piece of legal pad. About a dozen choices, with no prices posted, but who cared. They have cold Mexican beer and a helluva attitude.
Enough of this. I've got a fence to go fix.
Cheers
Friday, October 10, 2008
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
With each task completed, another appears
October 9, 2008
As the crews and their trucks continue to make dents in the piles of decaying rubble, the town is still coming to grips with what it will take to get things going again.
School started yesterday -- sort of. Only some of the school buildings were spared; none of the school buses made it. School officials with expediency rather than empathy on their minds directed children to operational school buildings according to the alphabet instead of region. So if your last name begins with B but your best buddy two doors down has a name that begins with Y, you won't be in the same school any longer. I suppose this could be viewed as a way to compel making new friends, but in the midst of so many other traumatic disruptions, was this really such a good idea? About 50% of the school aged children of Galveston are not here. Whether most will return or not remains to be seen.
Facing a multimillion dollar payroll and no hospital, The University of Texas Medical Branch is in dire straits. President David Callender, MD held a town meeting yesterday to a standing-room-only crowd, where 'bated breath held silence as all awaited confirmation or refutation of the rumor. The island's largest employer (12,000+) was rumored to be preparing to lay off 4,000 workers. Just what someone who's just lost his home needs to hear - "Hey, we no longer have any hospital revenue, so we can no longer hold your job."
The bad news did not come, but like the Obama/McCain debate later in the evening, nothing new of much substance emerged either. What was clear was that things will not be the like they were for a very long time. One of the oldest medical schools west of the Mississippi does not have a hospital- for now. It was only a few months ago that I had lunch with Dr. Callender and heard about the new multi-million dollar surgical tower that was coming off the drawing board. Now he speaks of a scaled-down facility of maybe 200 beds with more empahsis on mainland ambulatory care, research (always a big part of UTMB) and a nebulous vision of something new and different. Whether the UT Board of Rengents and the Texas Legislature will step up to the plate or not remains to be seen. We are told again that there is no plan to move UTMB to Austin, but how that translates to additional financial support is as fuzzy as the mold growing in every island nook and cranny. Bottom line - dispelled rumors notwithstanding, many Galvestonians are about to lose their jobs. I do not envy Dr. Callender's job.
Three hard-working men, whose immigration status I do not question, have been pulling all the water-logged ductwork from under our house. They quit last night at 6 pm, more filthy than any persons I've seen, even on this messy island. They've been at it for two days and tell me (in Spanish) they've got one more day to go. Before any new ducts and air-conditioning can go it, the wiring must also come out. That's next. What electricity we have in the main house now will temporarily disappear with the rewiring job.
The black, mucky swamp that had once been our pool was pumped dry this week. Whatever that organic matter was covering the plaster was so thick the surface had to be taken back down to the gunnite, then replastered. In another day or two it's going to look like a pool again. Of course, to keep it looking that way, all the pumping/filtration system will be replaced as it was setting in saltwater long enough to be destroyed. A word of insight: neither flood nor homeowners insurance covers flood damage to swimming pools.
So shall we feel sorry for ourselves? My goodness, I've had water in my four-car garage. My Mercedes SL (insured of course) was destroyed. My swimming pool is ugly. And we don't have air-conditioning. Oh woe are we!
Four or five blocks away is a shelter of tents on the playground of what was an elementary school. Half the island is still without electric or gas, although the water is now potable. Thousands of my fellow Galvestonians who were near homeless now appear to be soon jobless. Kids are sitting in strange classrooms with strangers in the adjacent desks. Our island continues to grieve. There is no place for self-pity at our house - way too much to do.
Monday, October 6, 2008
Home again; grim reminders
October 5, 2008
Why we should have fantasized that all that crap would be cleared up when we got home is a mystery for the psychologists. Mountains of debris still line most streets and even larger mountains of furniture, refrigerators and indescribable 'stuff' now are piled on every vacant space.
Our friends try to stay composed as they tell of giant jaws picking up the remains of their grand piano and dropping it in a huge dumpster.
I met with State Farm today for a benign debate over how much my car was worth. We were within a couple of hundred dollars of each other, so the debate had about as much lackluster enthusiasm as the first Presidential debate.
Only after we'd settled on a figure did the adjuster, who regularly works catastorphes, learned that I am a psychiatrist who volunteered with the Red Cross to help Katrina and Rita displaced persons. It turns out this woman was having her own share of problems with Galvestonians.
Galveston (excluding the very affluent West End) is a relatively old community. Lots of seniors. Lots of old folks who own their homes outright. Now think about it: If you don't have a mortgage, nobody is making you buy flood insurance. If you're on a limited fixed income, what a temptation it must have been to shrug off the exhorbitant premiums. So today I learned what a monumental impending problem we are about to face here. We are a town that has yet to acknowledge our new group of homeless - the elderly with homes sans mortgage and sans contents.
It is only a matter of time until many of the denizens of this island will begin to show the inevitable sequelae of this trauma. No doubt there will be a need for those who deal with infectious disease, minor traumae and tetanus shots. But I suspect the real morbidity is going to be associated with the mental stress of this ordeal. The PTSD issues will be less than that I saw among Katrina victims, but it will be significant. More troubliing is the likelihood of emerging medical issues tied to psychological stress. Heart patients, diabetics, those at risk for stroke -- look out.
How to escape a hurricane ravaged city
Go to another hurricane ravaged city, of course. Kathy and I decided we needed a break from muck and misery. We stuck everything away and headed off to The Big Easy. What better place to commiserate than New Orleans?
We joined Colin and Diane (son and daughter-in-law) for a respite. They flew in from their home in New York City for a refreshing break filled with gustatory decadence and alcohol overindulgence.
Coincidentally, we connected with our old friends the Paces and Bairds, further reinforcing the value of friends and how inconsequential our transient troubles will probably seem some time in the future.
Of course we indulged at Gallitoire's, Bayona and Acme. We spun around the Carousel bar at the Montlione and drank Hurricanes at Pat O'Brien's. But we also visited the Ninth Ward where homeowners with far less than we are still busily rebuilding their neighborhood. Whites and blacks, next door neighbors, kids playing in the yards, all inspiring us to what Galveston can certainly do if these guys can.
Staying tough
September 30, 2008
Living in Galveston these days is quite an adventure.
No land lines, DSL, or faxes are available anywhere on Galveston Island. Maybe half the island behind the seawall is still without electricity. There are no utilities anywhere on the west end, beyond the seawall. There is no natural gas anywhere. I was able to shut off my gasoline generator a couple of days ago when we got hooked back up with power. Of course my two central A/C units went under water, so all we've got is a window unit. At least fall is in the air and nights are cool.
They got cell phone towers running last week although their performance is compromised. Thank goodness I have one of those Verizon Aircards, or I wouldn't be able to do email, etc.
The wind damage was no big deal as coastal towns are pretty much set up to handle the wind forces. Although the hurricane was only a high Cat 2 or low Cat 3, the storm surge was the largest since the 1900 storm! Basically wiped out downtown, which was under over six feet of water. The guy that towed my flooded vehicle off yesterday said there were 20,000 flooded cars on the island. That doesn't even count what's on the mainland.
Given the nature of small business and what is going to inevitably be a tightening of the credit markets, I worry about how many of the current small businesses will be able to come back.
The Red Cross and Salvation Army are doing a great job keeping people fed. FEMA is actually functional - kudos to Michael Chernoff.
We have a couple of supermarkets that opened this week as well as 3 gas stations. Randalls Supermarket was giving away barbecue sandwiches yesterday. The National Guard is distributing ice and essentials to those that need it. Three restaurants are open on a partial basis, plus a Whataburger. Lots of people are cooking outdoors on charcoal.
The port is opening this week which is good. The medical school and hospital won't open again for at least another couple of months. Longer yet for the research facilities. We have a rudimentary emergency room and a small ambulatory clinic that's mostly giving Tetanus shots and dealing with minor injuries. The yacht basin looks like a bomb hit it with multimillion dollar boats catawampus or sunk. We actually still have a couple of large boats setting in the middle of the main esplanade onto the island, and hundreds of watercraft from jet skis to shrimp boats line the sides of the Gulf Freeway coming onto the island.
The storm surge traveled well up Galveston Bay and the Houston Ship Channel. Hundreds of miles inland Ike dumped enough rain to create floods and misery. As of earlier this week, there were still over a million people in Houston without electricity and Houston's about fifty miles inland. Unbelievable!
You still have to drink bottled water or boil it. About 80% of the homes, by my estimation, have sustained some damage - including mine. There are mountains of furniture and personal items lining almost every street. Itʼs incredibly sad to see so much of people's lives at the curb. The citizens of Galveston are a tough bunch, however. The island looks like an ant farm with people scurrying around, tearing out damage and rebuilding. Tents and camper trailers abound. Cold showers are the norm. Everyone is filthy, and stained tee shirts are now fashion de jur everywhere on the island. Each morning and at dusk a huge migration of cars move on and off the island. Galveston is still under a curfew. It's weird to have dead silence after dark here.
The camaraderie cannot help but get you choked up as we are all in this together. Friends come by to see how we're doing, and we periodically take a break from our work to do the same.
Cheers,
Home at last
September 26, 2008
And so we arrive to view the damage. Worse than some, better than most.
I had to find ice today as we have no electricity (or natural gas, or phone lines, or drinkable water). Driving around the island, there was no ice to buy. There was, however, ice to have. All one had to do was go to one of the crisis centers and ask. That's right - ask. Ask for help. Ask for ice. Ask for food. Ask. I'd never done that before. Have you? Imagine the smiling faces of National Guardmen as they toss generic boxes of soap, ready-to-eat meals and ice into your vehicle. They don't ask what you need or why. They don't question your motivation. They only tell you, "We'll be here tomorrow if you need anything." If you can accept this charity and not cry, you are far tougher than I.
Tonight will be our first night in the house. We have no television, so Kathy and I decided to cruise town looking for a bar with a TV so we could watch Obama and McCain kick each other for the first time. Then we remembered: 8 pm curfew. I felt like our grandparents, sitting around a radio and listening, listening. It was interesting hearing content without body language.
Finally a go-ahead
The mayor has said we can return tomorrow. We're probably going to get in line on the Gulf Freeway about 5 am. Hopefully they've got enough ID check lanes to get traffic moving well. I figure we'll spend the daylight hours cleaning up stuff. We're going to spend tomorrow night back on the mainland, then bring back the other car and probably stay on the island thereafter. I just want to be sure we have a toilet that works.
Here's something to piss you off: I tried to buy a gasoline generator on our trek back to Galveston. First stop - Santa Fe, New Mexico. All generators had been purchases en masse by a couple of 'entrepreneurs' who were planning to take them to Galveston and sell them for a profit. Same story in Amarillo. Fortunately, the morning we were leaving Amarillo, I got to Harbor Freight just as a truck was unloading eight generators. I bought the first one. The folks there said the others would all be bought up by some guys who always did this when there was a disaster somewhere. Seems they were also interested in turning a profit over other's misery. Nice.
Waiting for the word to get home
On the road back to Galveston
All we can get is sketchy, second-hand info. Virtually everyone on the island got some level of flooding. (This appears to have been the worst storm in Galveston in 100 years.) My 85 year old house has never seen water in it. From what I can gather, I got somewhere between a few and 18 inches in the house. I have a four car garage that is about five feet below my house. Thus my cute little Mercedes, a couple of my motorcycles and a lot of power tools are toast. Ditto for my exercise room. I'm figuring all that stuff got about 4 -6 feet of water.
With the storm heading straight for Galveston, frantic phone calls are made to try to get somebody to secure the house. As a mandatory evacuation is quickly called, there's only 24 hours or so to get ready. Since everybody on the island is trying to secure his own place, all I could get done was plywood over the doors and pool furniture in the garage. Then it's just sit and wait.
The next morning it's all over the news. A storm the size of the state of Texas has made a direct hit on where we call home. It was either a strong Category 2 or 'weak' Category 3, depending on where the wind speed was measured. But what clearly set this storm apart was its storm surge. Although it did not reach the dreaded twenty feet some had predicted, it was over ten and massive in size. Information is still coming in as we try to plan our next step. There's talk of keeping people off the island for a while, so an argument can be made to simply stay put.
But there's a homing drive that's part of the human condition. There's an urge to get back, even in the face of danger. People hate the unknown, and we're no different. We have to get closer.